Combining DNA Barcoding and Chemical fingerprints to authenticate Lavender raw material.

OBJECTIVE: This study was initiated and conducted by several laboratories, 3 of the main cosmetic ingredient suppliers and 4 brands of cosmetics in France. Its objective is to show the interest and robustness of coupling chemical and genetic analyses in the identification of plant species. In this study, the Lavandula genus was used. METHODS: In this study, we used two analytical methods. Chemical analysis from UHPLC (ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography) and genetic analysis from barcoding with genetic markers. RESULTS: Eleven lavender species were selected (botanically authenticated) and analysed. The results show that three chemical compounds (coumaric acid hexoside, ferulic acid hexoside and rosmarinic acid) and three genetic markers (RbcL, trnH-psbA and ITS) are of interest for the differentiation of species of the genus lavandula. CONCLUSION: The results show that the combination of complementary analytical methods is a relevant system to prove the botanical identification of lavender species. This first study, carried out on a plant of interest for cosmetics, demonstrates the need for authentication using a tool combining genetic and chemical analysis as an advance over traditional investigation methods used alone, in terms of identification and authentication reliability.

OBJECTIF: Cette étude a été lancée et menée par plusieurs laboratoires, trois des principaux fournisseurs d'ingrédients cosmétiques et quatre marques de cosmétiques en France. Son objectif est de montrer qu'associer les analyses chimiques et génétiques dans l'identification des espèces végétales présente un intérêt et est une approche solide. Dans cette étude, c'est le genre Lavandula qui a été utilisé. MÉTHODES: Dans cette étude, nous avons fait appel à deux méthodes analytiques. L'analyse chimique, à partir de la chromatographie en phase liquide à haute performance (ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography, UHPLC), et l'analyse génétique en procédant à un codage à barres avec des marqueurs génétiques. RÉSULTATS: Onze espèces de lavande ont été sélectionnées (authentifiées du point de vue botanique) et analysées. Les résultats montrent que trois composés chimiques (acide coumarique hexoside, acide ferulique hexoside et acide rosmarinique) et trois marqueurs génétiques (RbcL, trnH-psbA et ITS) présentent un intérêt pour la différenciation des espèces du genre lavandula. CONCLUSION: Les résultats montrent que la combinaison de méthodes analytiques complémentaires est un système pertinent pour prouver l'identification végétale des espèces de lavande. Cette première étude, réalisée sur une plante qui offre un intérêt pour les cosmétiques, démontre la nécessité de procéder à une authentification à l'aide d'un outil qui conjugue analyse génétique et chimique ; elle représente une avancée par rapport aux méthodes d'investigation traditionnelles utilisées seules, en termes d'identification et de fiabilité de l'authentification.

Formation of Amphiphilic Molecules from the Most Common Marine Polysaccharides, toward a Sustainable Alternative?

Marine polysaccharides are part of the huge seaweeds resources and present many applications for several industries. In order to widen their potential as additives or bioactive compounds, some structural modifications have been studied. Among them, simple hydrophobization reactions have been developed in order to yield to grafted polysaccharides bearing acyl-, aryl-, alkyl-, and alkenyl-groups or fatty acid chains. The resulting polymers are able to present modified physicochemical and/or biological properties of interest in the current pharmaceutical, cosmetics, or food fields. This review covers the chemical structures of the main marine polysaccharides, and then focuses on their structural modifications, and especially on hydrophobization reactions mainly esterification, acylation, alkylation, amidation, or even cross-linking reaction on native hydroxyl-, amine, or carboxylic acid functions. Finally, the question of the necessary requirement for more sustainable processes around these structural modulations of marine polysaccharides is addressed, considering the development of greener technologies applied to traditional polysaccharides.

Structure of the Polysaccharide Secreted by Vibrio alginolyticus CNCM I-5035 (Epidermist 4.0TM).

Vibrio alginolyticus (CNCM I-5035) secretes an exopolysaccharide used as ingredient in cosmetic industry under the trademark Epidermist 4.0TM. It is appreciated for its ability to improve the physical and chemical barrier functions of the skin by notably increasing the keratinocyte differentiation and epidermal renewal. Composition analyses and in depth characterization of the polysaccharides as well as oligosaccharides obtained by mild acid hydrolyses revealed that it was composed of a repetition unit of three residues: d-galactose (d-Gal), d-N-acetylglucosamine (GlcNAc) and l-N-acetylguluronic acid, of which 30% (M/M) was acetylated in position 3. The complete structure of the polysaccharide was resolved giving the repetition unit: [→3)-α-d-Gal-(1→4)-α-l-GulNAcA/α-l-3OAc-GulNAcA-(1→4)-ß-d-GlcNAc-(1→].

Structure of the Exopolysaccharide Secreted by a Marine Strain Vibrio alginolyticus.

Vibrio alginolyticus (CNCM I-4151) secretes an exopolysaccharide whose carbohydrate backbone is decorated with amino acids, likely conferring its properties that are appreciated in cosmetics. Here, the secreted polysaccharide of another strain of V. alginolyticus (CNCM I-5034) was characterized by chromatography and one- and two-dimensional NMR spectroscopy experiments. The structure was resolved and shows that the carbohydrate backbone is made of four residues: D-galactose (Gal), D-galacturonic acid (GalA) D-N-acetylglucosamine (GlcNAc) and D-glucuronic acid (GlcA), forming a tetrasaccharide repetition unit [→4)-ß-d-GlcA-(1→3)-α-d-Gal-(1→3)-α-d-GalA-(1→3)-ß-GlcNAc(1→]. GlcA is derivatized with a lactate group giving 'nosturonic acid', and GalA is decorated with the amino acid alanine.

DMTMM-mediated amidation of alginate oligosaccharides aimed at modulating their interaction with proteins.

Alginate oligosaccharides (AOS) with a weight average molecular weight of 5 kDa were efficiently amidated with amino acids and carbohydrates in aqueous media in the presence of 4-(4,6-dimethoxy-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)-4-methylmorpholinium chloride (DMTMM). Here, alanine, leucine, serine, as well as mannose and rhamnose, were amidated at high yields with a good control of the degree of substitution (DS). Amino acid- and carbohydrate-grafted AOS showed improved stability against degradation by alginate lyases having different specificities. This enzyme resistance was correlated with the DS: hydrolysis was reduced by 60-70% for low DS (0.1), whereas AOS with DS ranging from 0.4 to 0.6 remained unhydrolyzed. Competitive inhibition assays demonstrated multivalent binding of mannose-amidated AOS to concanavalin A lectin. A 178-fold affinity enhancement was observed for AOSMan-0.38 (DS 0.38) over α-methyl-mannoside with an IC50 of 5.6 µM, lending further evidence for the promising potential of AOS as multivalent scaffolds.

Structure of an Amino Acid-Decorated Exopolysaccharide Secreted by a Vibrio alginolyticus Strain.

Vibrio alginolyticus (CNCM I-4994) secretes an exopolysaccharide that can be used as an ingredient in cosmetic applications. The structure was resolved using chromatography and one- and two-dimensional NMR spectroscopy experiments. The results show that the carbohydrate backbone is made of two residues: d-galacturonic acid and N-acetyl-d-glucosamine (GlcNac), which together constitute a tetrasaccharide repetition unit: [→3)-α-d-GalA-(1→4)-α-d-GalA-(1→3)-α-d-GalA-(1→3)-ß-GlcNAc(1→]. Two amino acids, alanine and serine, are linked to GalA residues via amido linkages. The position and the distribution of the amino acids were characterized by two-dimensional NMR spectroscopy. To our knowledge, this is the first description of a structure for a marine exopolysaccharide decorated with an amino acid.